Grand Canyon Lodge
Design
From 1905 to 1928, the Santa Fe Railway's magnificent El Tovar held
sway as the premier accommodation on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.
Naturally, the Union Pacific Railway wanted something even more sublime
to offer travelers on "their" side of the Canyon.
The Grand Canyon Lodge would be the last major building in the UP's
"Loop Tour." This was their final opportunity for an architectural statement
that would create an unforgettable sense of place – and firmly cement the
UP's reputation as the leader in Grand Canyon touring.
The railroad's timing was impeccable. The company's other Canyon lodges
were generating income. The NPS was still encouraging limited development
in the National Parks. And the architect was in his prime.
The resulting Grand Canyon Lodge was a work of genius, blending so
beautifully into the landscape that it almost seemed part of the Canyon.
Construction
Perhaps because of concern over costs, the Lodge was not given a structural
core of steel or concrete. Wood and stone were selected as the primary
building materials – a choice that would prove unfortunate during a 1932
fire.
The building site was on the very edge of Bright Angel Point, 200 miles
from the rail line, thus virtually requiring the use of locally available
building materials. A limestone rock quarry was opened 2 miles from the
site. Talented local stonemasons constructed the Lodge's foundation, piers
and other impressive rockwork.
Timber was cut in the Kaibab Forest, about 10 miles to the north, and
a sawmill was brought to the project site. The mill needed water and power,
so a hydroelectric plant was built on the Colorado River, 3,400 feet below
the Lodge construction site.
On June 1, 1928, the Lodge and Cabins were ready to accommodate 250
guests.
The Architect
In 1926, Gilbert Stanley Underwood had just completed work on The Ahwahnee
in Yosemite National Park. Now the Union Pacific and National Park Service
wanted him to come back to the Southwest, to finish the cycle of work he'd
begun at Zion Canyon Lodge.
They trusted Underwood to create a North Rim destination that would
be the crowning glory of the railroad's "Loop Tour." And Underwood's design
exceeded all expectations.
Certainly the Grand Canyon Lodge was architecturally, and geographically,
related to the Bryce and Zion Canyon Lodges. But there was a new elegance
in Underwood's plans, apparently developed while working on the luxurious
Ahwahnee. And if the Grand Canyon Lodge was more rustic, it compensated
by merging with the environment even more perfectly than The Ahwahnee had.
This was the pinnacle of Underwood's work in the National Parks.
Visitors
Today's visitors see an impressive building, but this Lodge is only
a shadow of former glory. The original building burned to the ground in
the largest structural fire in the Park's history. The fire was started
by sparks from a Lodge hearth, early on the morning of September 1, 1932.
In the aftermath, Horace Albright, Director of the NPS, wrote to the
Railway, lamenting, "It seemed a crime that this wonderful Lodge had to
be destroyed when there were fully a score of old lodges, hotels, government
structures, etc., which we would have been rather pleased to have suffer
a fate of this kind. I hope you will find it possible to rebuild the lodge
at once, as your operation at the Grand Canyon was the outstanding tourist
accommodation of the entire national Park system."
In 1936, a new Lodge did open on the original site, but the old observation
tower was missing.
and Cabins
Repeating a format used at other UP lodges, the Grand Canyon Lodge contained no guest rooms. Visitors stayed in cabins, ranging from the upscale "Western" Deluxe Cabins, to the modest "Pioneer" and "Frontier" Standard Cabins. When the Lodge opened in 1928, there were 100 Standard Cabins, and 20 Deluxe Cabins.